Sabine Krieg knows the world of retail design like no other. She’s worked with brands like Louis Vuitton, Hugo Boss and Levi’s, but also the design company Vitra. Today, she advises international labels, is Professor of retail design and Dean of the design faculty at the Peter Behrens school of arts, Hochschule Düsseldorf. In conversation with Loek Wermenbol, she shares her vision on timeless design, the pull of empty space, and why not every store needs to be a digital spectacle.

“All together now” – collaborating for a better retail world

For Sabine, everything starts with collaboration.
“We have to stop thinking we can do it alone. Or worse—do it better alone. Retail challenges require different perspectives, disciplines, and generations.”

Same goes for store design:
“You can’t be solely responsible for the light, the scent, the digital layer, the customer flow, and the concept. You need each other to create a layered, meaningful experience.”

“No more copy-paste retail”

Too many brands chase the formula, Sabine says.
“There used to be a checklist: this is how you create a great store. One, two, three—done. That doesn’t work anymore.”

Brands need to return to who they are. Not copy, but choose. And then: go all in.
“Take House of Rituals. She quotes Richard Lems in the last podcast that they are bold on the outside, but calm on the inside. They know exactly who they are. And that’s what makes it work.”

“I love beautiful chaos—when it makes sense”

What’s the last concept that impressed her?
“No hesitation: Dover Street Market in Paris.”

“I wondered if they were still as fresh as before. The answer is yes. Their idea of beautiful chaos isn’t random—it works. It’s analogue, raw, and refined. Pure character.”

She also points out Songzio, a South Korean brand that opened a flagship in Paris.
“Concrete. Emptiness. Pure materials. Then suddenly—a massive digital screen. But it feels like art, not advertising. It’s so well integrated. Subtle. Layered.“

Less spectacle, more feeling

Sabine advocates for retail design that invites people to feel.
“Don’t explain everything. Leave room. Let scent, light and materials do the work. Design shouldn’t direct—it should activate.”

And digital tools?
“They should be there—but quietly. No screens just for the sake of it. Tech should be part of the story, not sit next to it. Especially young people want what’s real. And that means: sometimes, do less.”

“Design doesn’t have to shout. It can whisper.”

From Seoul to Tokyo: calm is a luxury

Sabine draws much of her inspiration from Asia—especially Japan.
“A space that seems empty, but sets everything in motion on the inside. That’s what I want to feel.”

“No overload. No push. But a setting that awakens the senses and allows for personal connotation and interpretation.”
Even her view on digital follows that philosophy:
“Design shouldn’t revolve around technology. Technology should serve the experience.”

And the future?

For Sabine, the future of retail is about diversity and daring.
“People don’t want to walk into the same store again and again in different streets. They want surprise. Discovery. But also interact with each other: socio retailing is the new idea.“

“The essence? Dare to be different. Dare to be yourself. But also let people interact with your brand and be authentic.”